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Blown Film Troubleshooting Guide: 15 Common Problems and Fixes

Blown film defects feel overwhelming because many symptoms look similar at first glance. The fastest way to troubleshoot is to start from where the problem begins:

  • Die / melt zone issues often show up as lines, gels, rough surface, black specks, or unstable pressure.
  • Bubble / cooling zone issues often show up as an unstable bubble, gauge bands, haze, blocking, or bubble breaks.
  • Collapsing / haul-off / winding issues often show up as wrinkles, wandering, telescoping rolls, curl, and static-related handling problems.

This guide is written to be practical: diagnose the symptom, run a fast check, try the first fix, and then confirm stability in a continuous run.

Troubleshooting Master Table: Symptom → Cause → Fast Check → First Fix

Use this table first. It’s designed so a non-expert can make progress in minutes.

Defect or symptomWhat you seeMost likely causesFast check in 2 minutesFirst fix to try
Gels / fisheyesclear hard dots, weak spotscontamination, poor melting, dirty regrindcheck screen pressure trend, inspect pellets/regrindreplace screens, improve mixing, clean feed system
Flow lines / die linesrepeating streaks along MDdie build-up, temp imbalance, unstable flowinspect die lip condition, compare left/right frost lineclean die lips, stabilize temps, reduce shear briefly
Melt fracture / sharkskinrough, matte “sandpaper” surfacehigh shear, low melt temp, die conditionraise melt temp slightly and observestabilize melt temp, reduce output/shear, clean die
Black specksblack dots, sometimes with tailsdegradation, deposits, contaminationcheck after restart/changeoverimprove purge discipline, clean material path, replace screens
Screen pack pluggingpressure rises, output dropscontamination, fines/fluff, dirty regrindwatch pressure trend over timechange screens, improve filtration, clean regrind
Bubble unstable / dancingbubble breathing, leaning, oscillationuneven cooling, drafts, air ring issuesclose doors/fans, observe frost line symmetryclean air ring, re-center bubble, stabilize airflow
Bubble keeps breakingsudden tear, repeated breakscooling imbalance, tension spikes, weak spotsnote break location and clock positionstabilize cooling + tension; see deep guide link below
Gauge variation / gauge bandsthick-thin stripes, bandingcooling asymmetry, haul-off hunting, die temp driftwatch frost line symmetry and speed stabilityclean/center air ring, stabilize haul-off and output
Haze / poor claritymilky look, low glosscooling conditions, resin choice, frost line driftcompare clarity after cooling changestabilize cooling and frost line; confirm resin direction
Blocking / poor openabilityfilm sticks after storageslip/antiblock balance, winding pressure, humidityretest after 24–72h storageadjust surface strategy, reduce winding pressure, control storage
Wrinkles / baggy laneswrinkles, loose lanes, uneven layflattension issues, misalignment, cooling imbalancecheck web path and collapsing frame alignmentstabilize bubble first, then correct alignment and tension
Telescoping / bad roll buildroll shifts sideways, edges collapsewrong taper tension, lay-on issues, COF driftcheck roll build behavior as diameter growstune taper tension, lay-on control; verify slip/COF stability
Edge weave / wanderingweb walks, edge oscillatesguiding, tension hunting, roll alignmentobserve edge movement at steady speedstabilize speed loop, check guide rollers and path
Curling / poor layflatcurling edges, poor flatteninguneven cooling, orientation imbalance, tensioncompare curl left vs rightcorrect cooling symmetry, then tune haul-off and winding
Static problemsclinging, flutter, dust attractionlow humidity, poor grounding, weak static controlcheck grounding + static barsimprove grounding/static control; review antistatic strategy

How to Use This Guide Without Chasing Random Settings

If you change five things at once, you can’t know what fixed the problem. Use this simple workflow:

  1. Mark where the defect starts (die / frost line / collapsing frame / nip / winder).
  2. Record your baseline (resin, thickness, output, BUR, frost line height, line speed).
  3. Stabilize cooling and environment first (drafts, air ring cleanliness, symmetry).
  4. Then stabilize web handling (haul-off, tension, winding ramps).
  5. Prove the fix with a continuous stable run, not a short demo.

Die, Melt, Material Problems

What Causes Gels and Fish Eyes in Blown Film

Gels and fisheyes usually appear as small clear or slightly hazy hard dots that don’t stretch the same way as the surrounding film. In packaging, they become weak points. In converting, they can cause pinholes or tear starters.

Most gels come from one of three sources: contamination, poor melting, or degraded material. Dirty regrind and inconsistent mixing often make the problem worse because they introduce “lumps” that never fully melt or that break apart downstream.

Most common causes

  • Contaminated regrind, dusty fines, or foreign polymer mixed in
  • Poor mixing of masterbatch or additives, causing local concentration spots
  • Degraded deposits breaking loose after a restart or changeover

Fast checks

  • Watch if melt pressure rises faster than normal (screens loading)
  • Inspect regrind cleanliness and mixing consistency
  • See if gels increase right after changeovers

First fixes

  • Replace screens and improve filtration discipline
  • Improve feeding and mixing (consistent dosing, avoid bridging)
  • Clean the feed system and material path to remove old deposits

Flow Lines and Die Lines: How to Spot the Root Cause Fast

Flow lines and die lines look like repeat streaks running in the machine direction. Some are cosmetic; some become real weakness zones—especially if they repeat at a specific clock position.

A practical way to diagnose them is to ask: Are the lines stable and repeatable in the same place? If yes, suspect die build-up or die temperature imbalance. If they appear and disappear with speed changes, suspect unstable flow or cooling symmetry.

Most common causes

  • Die lip build-up or deposits
  • Temperature imbalance across the die
  • Flow instability amplified by uneven cooling

Fast checks

  • Inspect die lip condition during a safe stop
  • Compare left vs right frost line symmetry
  • Reduce output slightly and see if the line intensity changes

First fixes

  • Clean die lips and restore uniform die temperature
  • Stabilize melt temperature and output (avoid hunting)
  • Confirm air ring airflow is uniform so one side is not overcooling

Why Melt Fracture Happens and the Quickest Fixes

Melt fracture (often described as sharkskin) shows up as a rough, matte surface or fine “ribbing.” It’s often linked to high shear at the die and a process window that is too tight.

In practice, melt fracture can become a bubble-stability problem because rough zones can act as stress starters, and operators may push output until the surface suddenly turns unstable.

Most common causes

  • Output/shear too high for the current die and resin
  • Melt temperature too low for stable flow
  • Die condition issues (lip wear or deposits)

Fast checks

  • Increase melt temperature slightly within resin limits and observe
  • Reduce output briefly to see if roughness disappears

First fixes

  • Stabilize melt temperature and avoid aggressive output jumps
  • Reduce shear (moderate output, adjust conditions)
  • Clean and inspect die lips and flow surfaces

Black Specks and Contamination: Where They Usually Come From

Black specks often trigger urgent complaints because they look like “burnt” defects. Many times they come from degraded deposits in the material path that break loose after changes or restarts.

If black specks increase right after a restart, it’s often a sign that old deposits were loosened by heat soak or purge actions.

Most common causes

  • Degradation deposits in barrel/die or adapter
  • Dirty regrind or foreign particles
  • Changeover/purge discipline that releases deposits into production

Fast checks

  • Compare speck rate before and after restart/changeover
  • Check if specks correlate with unstable temperature or pressure

First fixes

  • Improve purge procedure (steady, disciplined, not chaotic)
  • Clean the feed and melt path where deposits accumulate
  • Replace screens and review regrind cleaning and handling

When Screen Pack Plugging Reduces Output and Causes Instability

Screen pack plugging usually shows up as rising melt pressure and falling output stability. Over time, the bubble becomes harder to keep stable because flow becomes less uniform.

Most common causes

  • Contamination, dusty fines, fluffy regrind
  • Incorrect filtration routine or insufficient screen capacity
  • Material handling problems that introduce dirt

Fast checks

  • Watch pressure trend over the run
  • Compare stability before and after screen changes

First fixes

  • Change screens before the line becomes unstable
  • Improve regrind cleanliness and reduce fines/fluff
  • Consider filtration upgrades if plugging happens too frequently

Bubble, Cooling, Gauge Problems

Why Is My Blown Film Bubble Unstable or “Dancing”

A “dancing” bubble is usually a cooling and airflow symmetry problem, sometimes amplified by drafts or output that exceeds the cooling capacity.

If your frost line is constantly moving, bubble stability will suffer. Don’t chase the bubble with constant manual corrections; fix the root symmetry issue.

Most common causes

  • Drafts from doors, fans, air conditioners
  • Air ring imbalance or partial blockage
  • Cooling capacity not matching output
  • Poor centering between die, air ring, and bubble

Fast checks

  • Close drafts and watch if stability improves immediately
  • Observe frost line symmetry left vs right
  • Inspect air ring outlets for blockage

First fixes

  • Clean air ring and restore uniform airflow
  • Re-center the bubble and confirm symmetry
  • Reduce output slightly to recover stability, then rebuild settings slowly

Bubble Keeps Breaking: Causes & Fixes You Can Try First

Bubble breaks are a high-scrap event. In most plants, the top triggers are cooling imbalance, tension spikes, and weak spots from contamination or melt instability.

Start by recording the break location (die / frost line / collapsing frame / nip / winder) and whether it repeats at a consistent clock position. That single observation often saves hours.

For a deeper, step-by-step guide focused only on bubble breaks, see:
Blown Film Bubble Keeps Breaking: Causes & Fixes for Air Ring, Cooling & Tension

How to Fix Gauge Variation and Gauge Bands in Blown Film

Gauge variation and gauge bands appear as thick-thin stripes or periodic banding. They usually come from one of three areas: cooling symmetry, haul-off speed stability, or die temperature drift.

A practical diagnosis is to observe whether the banding pattern changes when you stabilize the bubble and frost line. If it improves, your root cause is likely cooling/airflow symmetry.

Most common causes

  • Air ring imbalance or uneven cooling
  • Haul-off hunting (speed loop instability)
  • Die temperature non-uniformity

Fast checks

  • Watch frost line symmetry and stability
  • Check if banding changes with a small output reduction
  • Confirm haul-off speed is steady, not oscillating

First fixes

  • Clean/center air ring and stabilize cooling
  • Stabilize haul-off control and avoid hunting
  • Confirm uniform die temperature across zones

Haze, Poor Clarity, and Gloss Problems: What to Check

If your film looks milky or hazy, the cause is often a combination of resin selection and cooling conditions. For many plants, clarity problems become worse when the frost line drifts or cooling becomes uneven.

If the product requires clear packaging film, it’s not enough to “push speed.” You need stable cooling and consistent conditions.

Most common causes

  • Cooling conditions and frost line instability
  • Resin selection not matched to clarity target
  • Surface package migration affecting appearance over time

Fast checks

  • Observe if haze changes after stabilizing cooling
  • Compare haze when frost line is steady vs drifting

First fixes

  • Stabilize cooling and frost line position
  • Confirm resin direction and structure match clarity targets
  • Retest after storage if haze changes over time

For resin selection context, see your material guides:

  • LLDPE vs LDPE vs HDPE for Blown Film: Differences + Recommended Machine Setup & Additives
  • HDPE vs LDPE Film: Which One Should You Use for Bags and Liners

Why Film Blocks and Becomes Hard to Open After Storage

Blocking is when film sticks to itself after winding and storage. Many lines look fine during production, then converting complains later because rolls are hard to unwind.

Blocking often comes from the interaction between surface package (slip/antiblock), winding pressure, and storage temperature/humidity. That’s why “it looked fine today” is not proof of success.

Most common causes

  • Slip/antiblock imbalance or inconsistent dosing
  • Winding pressure too high (tight rolls)
  • Storage heat and humidity accelerating surface changes

Fast checks

  • Retest openability after 24–72 hours storage
  • Check whether blocking correlates with higher winding tension

First fixes

  • Reduce winding pressure and optimize roll build
  • Stabilize surface strategy and dosing discipline
  • Improve storage control and retest with real holding time

Collapsing, Haul-off, Winding Problems

Wrinkles and Baggy Lanes: How to Troubleshoot Web Handling

Wrinkles and baggy lanes usually appear when the web is not under balanced tension or when the collapsing frame is forcing an unstable bubble into layflat. Many operators adjust tension first, but wrinkles often improve faster after you stabilize the bubble and cooling symmetry.

Most common causes

  • Collapsing frame misalignment or incorrect clearance
  • Tension imbalance across the web
  • Uneven cooling creating residual stress

Fast checks

  • Observe whether wrinkles reduce after bubble stabilization
  • Confirm web path and frame alignment

First fixes

  • Stabilize bubble first, then adjust tension
  • Align collapsing frame and web path
  • Ensure haul-off speed is stable and not hunting

Telescoping Rolls and Bad Roll Build: Tension and Winder Fixes

A roll that telescopes or builds badly is a classic winder problem, but it can be triggered by upstream instability as well. If the roll becomes worse as diameter grows, tension taper is often wrong.

Most common causes

  • Taper tension not tuned to film type and gauge
  • Lay-on roll control issues
  • COF drift and surface instability causing slip or blocking

Fast checks

  • Watch roll build behavior across diameter
  • Check whether defects spike during roll changes

First fixes

  • Tune taper tension and roll build strategy
  • Stabilize lay-on roll pressure and contact conditions
  • Verify slip/COF behavior and retest after storage

Edge Weave and Web Wandering: What Causes Tracking Problems

Edge weave and wandering look like the film can’t “hold a line.” This can be caused by misalignment, poor guiding, or tension hunting. If the web is stable at low speed but wanders at high speed, control loop stability becomes more likely.

Most common causes

  • Guide roller misalignment or poor web path geometry
  • Tension hunting or unstable speed loop
  • Uneven traction at nip or haul-off

Fast checks

  • Observe whether wandering occurs at steady speed or during ramping
  • Check guide rollers and web path straightness

First fixes

  • Stabilize speed control (avoid hunting)
  • Align guide rollers and optimize web path
  • Verify nip traction is stable and pressure is uniform

Curling, Poor Layflat, and Bag Making Complaints

Curling and poor layflat often show up downstream, especially when converting expects a stable web. Many times, the upstream trigger is cooling asymmetry that creates uneven orientation and residual stress.

If curl is worse on one side, that’s a strong clue that cooling symmetry or centering needs attention.

Most common causes

  • Uneven cooling and frost line asymmetry
  • Orientation imbalance from unstable conditions
  • Tension and winding stress

Fast checks

  • Compare left vs right curl severity
  • Check frost line symmetry and bubble stability

First fixes

  • Correct cooling symmetry first
  • Then tune haul-off and winding to reduce stress
  • Confirm stability after storage and in converting trials

Static Problems in Blown Film: When It Affects Printing and Converting

Static is often an amplifier: it makes handling unstable, causes clinging, attracts dust, and creates headaches for printing and converting. Static issues can look like “random problems” because they depend on humidity and grounding quality.

Most common causes

  • Low humidity and poor grounding
  • Insufficient static control devices
  • Film surface strategy not matched to converting needs

Fast checks

  • Check grounding continuity and static bar function
  • Observe whether problems worsen on dry days

First fixes

  • Improve grounding and static control setup
  • Stabilize the environment where possible
  • Review antistatic strategy if printing and converting are sensitive

Are You Looking for a Reliable Blown Film Machine Manufacturer

If you’re dealing with recurring defects, the best “fix” is often a configuration and stability plan that matches your product—rather than chasing symptoms forever.

At Wilson Machines, we build and configure blown film lines and matching printing & converting equipment based on your resin (LLDPE/LDPE/HDPE), thickness range, output target, and end-use. If you want faster diagnosis, send:

  • resin and blend ratio + additives
  • film thickness range and layflat width
  • target output and typical running speed
  • which defect you see and where it starts (die / bubble / nip / winder)

We’ll suggest a practical setup and troubleshooting path to reduce scrap and downtime.

Conclusion:

A troubleshooting culture beats “hero adjustments.” Use this checklist to keep quality stable:

  • Stabilize cooling symmetry before pushing output
  • Clean and maintain air ring outlets and airflow balance
  • Watch melt pressure trends and manage screens before instability starts
  • Prevent contamination with disciplined regrind handling and changeovers
  • Avoid speed hunting; stabilize haul-off and winding control loops
  • Tune taper tension and roll build for your film type and thickness
  • Retest openability and blocking after 24–72 hours storage
  • Prove each fix with a continuous stable run

FAQ

  1. Why do blown film defects often get worse right after restart?
    Right after restart, the melt path is “dirty and unstable” compared to steady state. Heat soak can loosen old deposits in the die/adapter, screens may load faster, and melt temperature/pressure can drift for the first 15–60 minutes. In many plants, the defect rate drops once melt pressure and frost line height stay stable for a continuous run. Practical tip: treat the first rolls after restart as a stabilization period, and record melt pressure trend + frost line position before declaring the line “good.”
  2. How do I tell if a defect is caused by cooling or by winding?
    Use a simple rule: if the symptom appears at the bubble/frost line stage (bubble breathing, frost line moving, gauge bands forming early), it’s usually cooling/airflow symmetry first. If the film looks acceptable until the collapsing frame/nip/winder (wrinkles appear late, telescoping increases with roll diameter, problems spike during roll change), it’s usually tension/winding control first. A fast confirmation test is to slow down 10–15%: cooling-driven defects often improve immediately at the bubble; winding-driven defects often remain until you tune tension and roll build.
  3. Do recycled materials increase blown film problems, and how do plants control it?
    Recycled content can raise the risk of gels, black specks, pressure rise (screen plugging), and run-to-run variation, especially if the regrind has fines/fluff or mixed polymers. Plants control it with disciplined sorting/cleaning, consistent dosing, stronger filtration routines, and “prove it” trials (same thickness, same output, same run time). A practical planning rule is to validate recycled blends using an 8-hour stability run and record scrap rate, melt pressure trend, and defect counts per roll.
  4. How long should a stable run be to confirm a troubleshooting fix worked?
    A short 5-minute demo isn’t enough for most defects. As a practical baseline: run long enough to pass through the typical unstable windows—warm-up, speed changes, and at least one roll build. Many plants use 30–60 minutes to confirm “the symptom disappears,” and 4–8 hours to confirm the fix is reliable (especially for bubble stability, screen plugging, and winding defects). If the defect is storage-related (blocking/openability), you also need a 24–72 hour storage re-check.
  5. What information should I record to troubleshoot blown film problems faster?
    Record resin/blend ratio + additives, target thickness and layflat width, output and line speed, BUR, frost line height, air ring and cooling settings, melt pressure trend, and exactly where the defect starts (die, frost line, collapsing frame, nip, or winder). One short video of the bubble and frost line during the defect window is often more useful than a long written description. With consistent records, you can compare runs and isolate what changed.

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